Calking welt



Oct. ,19, 1937.

L F. PLUMMER CALKING WEL T Original Filed April 17, 1931 Patented oct. 19, 1937 Aras UNITED CALKING WELT Lloyd F. Plummer, Brockton, Mass., assignor to The `Brockton National Bank, as trustee Application April 17, 1931, Serial No. 530,799 Renewed January 15, 1937 14 Claims.

`The present invention relates to welting which is` used in the manufacture of welt shoes, and

more particularly, but not exclusively, to the art of making a calking Welt which is secured, with the Welt, to the upper and insole of a welt-shoe bythe inseam stitches, and which is used to calk the shoe crease formed between the upper and the welt to exclude dirt and moisture and to impart to the shoe a heavy and storm-proof appearance.`

It has been proposed heretofore to use a calking Welt of the type referred to in which the face thereof which is exposed to view in the finished shoe is a grain face presenting `inherently an attractive appearance. This grain face has a free end face that may engage the exposed facev of the Welt and a flesh face that is secured by cement to a vertical flesh face on the body portion of the calking welt. As constructed heretofore there was a tendency `for the free end face of the grain face to lift away from the welt or the upper, (as the case may be, and expose to view a esh face of the body portion of the calking welt and thus destroy its attractive appearance.

The `principal object of the invention is to produce a calking welt composed of a single strip of material which, when inserted into the crease formedV between the upper and the welt of a welt shoe and secured, With the Welt, to the upper and insole `by the inseam stitches, will present to view a `grain farce which is locked in position on the body portionof the strip by the cooperative action of the original free end face of the grain face and the shoe part lengaged by said end face.

To the accomplishment of this object, and of others which will appear hereinafter, the various features of the present invention reside in cer- 't'ain constructions, arrangements of parts, step products, `and methods of manufacture hereinafter described and then set forth broadly and in detail in the appended. claims which possess acl` vantages readily apparent to those skilled in the art.

The various features of the present invention will be understood readily by those skilled in the art from an Vinspection of the accompanying drawing, illustrating the best form of the calking welt at present devised, the preferred method of making it andone mode of incorporating it into a welt shoe, in which,

vFigure 1 is a view in sectional elevation of a Welt shoe showing the improved calking welt located in the crease formed between the Welt and the upper; n 1

"Fig, 2 is a detail view in perspective of a standard strip of Goodyear shoe weltingV illustrating` the step of removing a triangular strip from the grain face thereof along the inner edge face to form a flange thinner than the standard strip;

Fig. 3 is a detail View in perspective of the same strip of material shown in Fig. 2 illustrating the step of removing from the flesh face thereof a triangular strip leaving the outer edge face intact;

Fig. 4 is a detail View in perspective of a step product inthe manufactureV of calking welts, the intact outer edge face and the grain face being molded to close up the gap formed in the fleshv face by the removal therefrom of the trangular strip shown in Fig. 3 and to convex the grain face, and I Fig. v 5jis` a detail View in perspective of .the improved calking welt `which is a product of the iinal step in the method, the two ilesh faces being concaved.

The improved method of making calking welts starts with a standard, rectangular, .endless strip of Goodyear Welt Shoe welting 6 (Fig. 2) of a desirable width. .The .strip G is .provided with a The scarf joint presents to view,l on both the y grain and iiesh faces, a transverse line I I, and, on the edge faces, a diagonal line I2.

The first step in the improved method of making calking welts consists in removing bodily from the strip E, either simultaneously or consecutively, two triangular strips I3 (Fig. 2) and I4 (Fig.\3) The triangular strip I3 is removed from the grain face I adjacent the inner edge face 9 to leave a rabbetand form a liange thinner than the strip 6 having a tapered iiesh face I5 which, however, does not taper to a feathered edge. As this strip I3 is provided with a grain face I it has utility in the manufacture of other types of welt and is not waste.

The strip I4 is removed from the iiesh face 8 adjacent the outer edge face I0 which is left intact. Removal of the stript I4 from the flesh face `8 forms a groove or rabbet, having two convergent faces I6 and I`Iin the body portion of the strip 6. 8. The face I'I meets the intact outer edge face I0 forming therewith a feather edge I8. The width of the gap left in the esh face 8 by the removal of the strip vI4 is substantially com- The face I6 meets the esh face i mensurate with the thickness of the intact edge face I0.

After the triangular strip I4 is removed from the flesh face 8 cement may be applied to the internal faces I6 and I'I. The strip I6 is passed through rolls which are shaped to turn the intact outer face I0 and the grain face 'I about the meeting edge of the faces I6 and Il'to bring them into face to face contact and to convex the grain face, as shown in Fig. 4. The gap 1 formed by the removal of the strip I4 from the flesh face 8 is now closed up and the intact outer edge face I0 is brought into substantially the same plane as the flesh face 8. At least a portion of the intact outer face I0 is brought into a position drectly underlying the internal faces I6 and I1.

The step product illustrated in Fig. 4 is tempered in a liquid, preferably water, and then is,

passed through another set of rolls shaped to impart the final form to the calking welt. These Vrolls impart a concave curvature to the flesh faces 8 and I5 in order that they may conform to the welt and the upper, respectively, of a GoodyearY Welt Shoe.

The calking welt I9 (Fig. 5) is secured to the upper 20 and the insole 2| of a Goodyear Welt Shoe bythe same inseam stitches 22 which secure the standard welt 23 to the upper and insole. VIn fact the calking welt I9 and the standard welt 23 are secured to the upper 20 and the insole 22 in the usual inseam sewing operation.

As shown in Fig. 1 the concaved flesh faces 8 and I5 of the calking welt I8 conform to the curvature of the welt 23 and the upper 20, respectively, adjacent the inseam. The convexed grain face I extends from theupper 20 to the welt 23 and completely fills the crease formed between the upper and the welt and thus excludes dirt and moisture and imparts to the shoe a heavy and storm-proof appearance. As the only portion of the calking welt 'I9 which is exposed to view is a grain face, the calking welt is inherently attractive in appearance, is capable of receiving a high finish, and may be crnamented in a pleasing manner. The scarf line II is ex-V posed to view in the nished shoe as a Vshort vertical line, easy to nish and attractive in appearance.

The original intact outer face I0 of the strip is now hidden as it engages the welt 23 with at least a portion of said face underlying the internal faces I6 and I'I. The body portion of the calking welt I9 thus impacts the original intact edge face IIJ against the welt 23 so that it is impossible for the internal faces I5 and I'I to separate in use whether or not they are cemented together. With this construction the convexed grain face 'I is fastened or locked securely in its proper position by the engagement of the intact edge face I0 with'a part of the shoe which, for the purposes of the present disclosure is the welt 23.

It will be clear to those skilled in this art, and with the general objects of the present invention in view,'that changes may be made in the steps of the method and in the det-ails of structure, the described and illustrated embodiments thereof being intended as exploitations of the underlying essentials of the invention, the features whereof are definitely statedrin their true scope in the claims herewith.Y

What is claimed as new, is:

1. A step product in the manufacture of calking welts comprisinga strip4 of material having an intact outer edge face, a portion of the grain face adjacent its inner edge face removed to form a flange thinner than the strip, and a portion of its esh face removed to form two internal convergent faces, one of which meets the flesh face and the other one of which meets the intact outer edge face.

2. A step product in the manufacture of calking welts comprising a strip of material having a grain face, a flesh face, an intact outer edge face, and a portion of its flesh face removed t0 form two internal convergent faces, one of which meets the flesh face and the other one of which meets the intact outer edge face.

3. A step product in the manufacture of calking welts comprising a strip of material having an intact outer edge face, a portion of the grain face adjacent its inner edge face removed, and a portion of its iiesh face removed to form two internal convergent faces, one of which meets the flesh face and the other one of which meets the intact outer edge face, the gap in the flesh face having a width substantially commensurate with the thickness of the outer edge face.

4. In a welt shoe, the combination with an upper, a welt; an insole, and an inseam for securing them together, of a calking welt, lying in the shoe crease formed between the upper and the welt and secured by the inseam, composed of a single strip of material presenting to view a grain face and having a concaved iiesh face engaged with the upper.

5. In a welt shoe, the combination with an upper, a welt, an insole, and an inseam for securing them together, of a calking welt, lying in the shoe crease formed between the upper and the welt and secured by the inseam,` composed of a single strip of material presenting to view a grain face and having a concaved flesh face engaged with the welt.

6. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing a triangular portion from the flesh face of a strip of welting adjacent one edge face leaving it intact, and bending the intact edge face approximately 90 to bring it into the plane of the flesh face from which the triangular Vportion had been removed.

7. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing a triangular portion from the grain and flesh face, respectively, of a strip of welting leaving one edge face intact and turning the intact edge face to close up the gap formed in the flesh face by the removal of the triangular portion.

8. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing a triangular portion from the grain and flesh face, respectively, of a strip of welting leaving one edge face intact, turning the intact edge face to close up the gap formed in the flesh face by the removal of the triangular portion, and convexing the grain face.

v9. That improvement in the art of making rcalking welts which consists in removing a triangular portion from the grain and flesh face, respectively, of a strip of welting leaving one edge face intact, molding the intact edge face and the grain face to close up the gap formed in the flesh face by the removal of the triangular portion and convex the grain face, and concaving the iiesh faces.

10. A blank for use in the manufacture of calkwelting and the like which consists of a strip of leather having grain on one side and esh on the other, a rabbet having two converging faces having been formed .on the flesh side, the widest dimention of the rabbet between said faces being substantially commensurate with the thickest part of the strip.

11. A calking Welt comprising a strip of material having an inner Vertical flesh face, an outer conveXed grain face, an integral concaved flesh face on one side extending from the upper end of the inner vertical flesh face to the convexed grain face, and a composite concavecl esh face on thel other side extending from the lower end of the inner vertical flesh face to the convexed grain face, one of the components of said composite face having a dimension substantially commensurate with the thickest part of the strip.

12. That improvement in the art of making one piece leather calk Welting, and the like, Which comprises removing a strip of grain leather from a strip of leather, having grain on one face and flesh on the other faces, adjacent one edge to leave a iiange thinner than the original strip, removing a triangular portion from the flesh face opposite the grain face leaving one edge face intact, and turning the intact edge face to close upthe gap formed in the flesh face by the removal of the triangular portion.

13. A calking Welt comprising a strip of material having an inner vertical flesh face, an outer convexed grain face, an integral flesh face on one side extending from one end of the inner vertical ilesh face to the convexed grain face, and a composite flesh face on the other side extending from the other end of the inner vertical flesh face to the convexed grain face, one of the components of said composite face having a dimension substantially commensurate With the thickest part of the strip.

14. That improvement in the art of making one piece leather calk Welting, and the like, which comprises removing a strip of grain leather from a strip of leather, having grain on one face and flesh on the other faces, adjacent one edge to leave a` flange thinner than the original strip, removing a portion of the flesh adjacent the other edge to leave tWo grain covered portions of substantially the full thickness of the original strip, bending one of said thick grain covered portions substantially to bring a flesh edge face thereof into the plane of the flesh face on the other one of said thick grain covered portions to form a composite flesh face and a bead having said grain on its outer face, and molding said bead to shape.

LLOYD F. PLUMMER. 

